Top-Rated Blog Posts

SuperGrand UltraDeluxe (Plus Extra More) Charging Cart

Charging Cart  4This is actually the third RC charging cart that I've constructed.  The first cart was a milk crate that I modified by adding wheels and a handle.  The second was more of a purpose built cart constructed from marine grade plywood.  It held up pretty well over it's year or two of service but it too had it's flaws.  So, late in 2008 I decided to sell that cart and have a third and hopefully ultimate cart constructed.  The design is based on some toolboxes that I saw while at the Norfolk Naval Shipyards. 

How to Cut a Fiberglass Hull

Brian with Cut HullThis blog post briefly describes how to cut windows in a previously marked fiberglass hull. Cutting windows in a fiberglass hull, even a thick one like my Nassau hull, is far easier than making a wood hull from scratch. This is the first part of a series of articles I will write while building my German Dreadnaught Nassau.

Making Ball-Valve Housings

DSCN0999.JPGThe heart of Indiana / Neubauer style cannons is the ball-valve. This post describes how to make the body of one of these valves. In this post I describe how I made the ball-valve housings for the cannons of my SMS Nassau.

How to Mark a Fiberglass Hull

mark_waterline.jpgMost Big Guns R/C warships are built from fiberglass 'kit' hulls purchased from various vendors. Before these hulls can be used in a Big Guns ship the hull must have a series of windows cut in its side to all rounds to penetrate. This blog post descibes how to successfully mark your fiberglass hull so that you can bring it to your club's Technical Officer (TO) for review prior to cutting.

Ammo Magazine Covers

IMG_6251.JPGI spent the afternoon finishing up the magazines and associated hardware (barrel risers, feed tubes, bottoms of barrel bends). Because of the difficulty in making discs in Lexan I drilled all the holes for the magazine covers using a rotary table. This post shows what I did.

Battle Damage Repair 101

large_repair_b.jpgMost of the time a ship will take enough damage to need repair but not enough to deserve a complete reskinning. Here are some pictures to show you how easy it is to make small (and not so small) repairs to the skin without removing the entire skin.

 

 

Inexpensive Waterproof Video Camera

0900688a80d2cd91_EKN037092_Mini_Video_Camera_grey_style_645x370.jpgI just wanted to let you know that Staples has a $70 off coupon for the Kodak Mini Video Camera. The coupon expires 3/26 and is good in store only. However, the coupon makes the camera around $30. It only takes 640x480 video but the price is definitely right. The camera is very small, very light and waterproof. You might want to consider picking one up (in store only).

 

Barrel Bend Bodies - Part 1

IMG_6221.JPGThis weekend I knocked out some of the remaining high precision pieces for Nassau's cannons: the machined barrel bends. Nassau's small size and my insistence on keeping things as close to scale as possible required something with a tighter bend than transitional barrels. Last year I experimented with other ways to support depression using machined barrel bends. Experimentation showed that the machine bends were at least as efficient as traditional barrels. So this weekend I started making the parts to be installed in Nassau.

Improving Accuracy of Mini-Lathe Tail-stock

Modified Tailstock I am still learning how to use my MicroMark 7x14 mini-lathe and MicroMark milling machine. However, one of the things that has been causing me a lot of grief is how inaccurate the tail-stock on the mini-lathe is. Because I am a complete novice, and because the equipment is so expensive (at least for me). I have been very hesitant to modify it. However, the inaccuracy of the tail-stock was becoming a show stopper and had to be corrected.

Making Cannon Manifolds

DSCN0914.JPGThis morning I did all the mill work for Nassau's cannon manifolds. The manifold is basically the bottom of the part of the cannon that rotates. It has two purposes (a) it redirects the CO2 to the barrels and (b) provides a way to adjust how the shot sits in the breach. This blog post will walk you through most of the process for making a manifold on a mini-mill and mini-lathe. These steps have been simplified from what someone might do who wanted everything as precise as possible. I am more interested in making parts quickly - this means minimizing setup and maximizing the number of parts that can be made each time a measurement is taken.